sologetaway.org

Silfra Fissure, Iceland

October 2022

“It’s going to be cold, but hopefully just around your face,” the dive guide’s words echoed in the crisp Icelandic air as our small group waddled across the parking lot, resembling awkward balloon animals in our bulky dry suits. Clad in long underwear, sweaters, and wool socks, we were handed the pieces of our aquatic armor: an insulated onesie jumpsuit, a dry suit, thick neoprene boots, gloves, and a hood. Each component was tightly sealed to fend off the frigid waters (ranging from 2°C to 4°C) of the Silfra Fissure.

Stepping into this realm of Iceland’s geological wonder, I found myself on the brink of an adventure unlike any other I had undertaken—the legendary Silfra Fissure.

Nestled within Thingvellir National Park, this underwater canyon emerges where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates meet and collide, gradually drifting apart by about 2 cm (0.8 inches) each year. As someone not certified for dry suit diving, snorkeling was my gateway to this wintry, watery wonderland that straddles continents. Despite the cool October air above, the glacier-fed waters of the Silfra Fissure maintain a constant icy temperature, requiring dry suits year-round.

With a large safety platform and supports, our entry (and exit) was easy, a boon for navigating in the cumbersome gear.

Under the watchful eye of Chris, our Dive Iceland guide, our group of six moved forward. His instructions echoed across the water, guiding us from swimming off course or letting us know when it looked like our mask or hood was about to shift. At several points, I was mesmerized by just how clear the water was, giving me a sensation that I was flying. The water’s visibility can reach up to 100 meters, one of the clearest dive sites in the world—a surreal experience that truly lives up to the hype.

As we slowly ventured through the watery corridor, traversing the gap between continents, I was struck by an overwhelming blend of humility and exhilaration. The fissure’s rocky formations unveiled their jagged splendor at every turn, each corner promising a new revelation. The remnants of the summer’s algae lent a greenish tinge, a prelude to the mesmerizing blue that would dominate the coming winter months.

Once we navigated the exit point and moved back to the Dive Iceland tour van to remove our dry suits, I started to feel the freeze of the glacial water on my cheeks and around my mouth. My dry suit’s defenses were breached toward the end of our time in the water—nothing dramatic, but enough that I was grateful for my extra thermal socks and dry clothes.

If there’s one piece of advice I’d give, it’s to bring warm layers and a full change of dry clothing. The chill creeps in fast once you step out of the suit. I also highly recommend bringing moisture-wicking thermal layers, as cotton can make the cold feel worse.

Once we stripped off the dry suit in the brisk air, I was quick to welcome the complimentary hot cocoa Chris and the team offered us to help shake off the chill.

Need-to-Know Before You Go

Booking & Costs:
Dive Iceland allows scuba diving for those certified as a Dry Suit Diver from an accredited diving organization (PADI, SSI, NAUI, etc.). Snorkeling is available for anyone who is comfortable in the water, but they must be over 12 years old and at least 150 cm (4ft, 9in) and 45 kg (99 lbs). Tours are popular, so booking in advance is recommended, especially in peak travel months. Prices vary by company and package, so check ahead to see what’s included.

Difficulty & Swimming Ability:
On a scale of 1-5 for difficulty, I would rate this experience as a 2—easygoing and well taken care of, but it can be chilly. You don’t need to be a strong swimmer, as the dry suit provides buoyancy, but you do need to be comfortable floating face-down for an extended period. There are no strong currents, so it’s more of a gentle drift than a strenuous swim. However, it is important to keep up with the group, as new tours enter the water every 10-15 minutes.

Facilities & What to Bring:
There are no changing rooms at the site, so you need to arrive in your base layers and be prepared to change outdoors or inside the tour van. There are basic restroom facilities in the parking lot but no lockers, so pack light.

Photography:
Bringing your own waterproof camera is an option, but handling it with thick neoprene gloves is challenging. Some tour companies offer GoPro rentals or include professional photos, so check before booking.

Weather Considerations:
Silfra remains open year-round, but extreme weather can impact travel conditions. If visiting in winter, be prepared for icy roads. The water temperature remains constant, so seasonality affects the landscape more than the experience itself.

Getting There:
Driving in from downtown Reykjavik, the journey took 50-60 minutes to reach Thingvellir National Park—leave yourself some time to stop and take photos of the amazing Icelandic landscape, especially if the sun is out. Dive Iceland can also arrange transportation from Reykjavik if you don’t have access to a car. The entry point to the Silfra Fissure is easy to find and marked by signs and the assembly of tour vans in the parking lot. Arriving twenty minutes early is advised since there is a safety briefing and instruction beforehand, followed by the amusing challenge of getting into your gear.

Solo & Senior Traveler Tips

Solo Travelers:
This is a group tour, making it easy for solo travelers to join without feeling out of place. The guides assist with gear, so you don’t need a buddy to help. If using the tour company’s transportation, it’s a hassle-free way to get to and from Reykjavik.

Senior Travelers:
The entry platform and dry suit buoyancy make this accessible for most people, but getting into the dry suit can be physically demanding. The guides help with this, but those with limited mobility may find it challenging. Walking from the parking lot to the water entry point is relatively short (a few minutes), and there is no rocky terrain to traverse – just the parking lot area reserved for the tour vans. If you tend to get cold easily, layering up and ensuring a snug (but not restrictive) fit on your dry suit will help maintain warmth.

Beyond Snorkeling: Exploring Thingvellir

Beyond the snorkeling adventure, the fissure’s allure extends above ground as well, allowing you to wander through its narrow canyon. After my dip in the glacial waters, I went on a leisurely hike up to the Thingvellir Visitor Center, making my way through the canyon before returning to the trail’s end and the parking lot. The viewing point from the Thingvellir Visitor Center overlooks the spectacular valley and lake.

In the heart of Iceland’s geographical drama, the Silfra Fissure beckons with an adventure that goes beyond the chill and adds to the captivating Icelandic landscape. Snorkeling or diving the Silfra Fissure adds to Iceland’s reputation as a destination for any adventurist and can be accomplished on your own, as a couple, or in a group.