An under-the-radar Caribbean Gem!
Summer 2023
“Be careful” the woman at the car rental counter in Pointe-à-Petrie advised me as she handed over the keys. “The roads are good, but there are lots of hills, curves, and roundabouts!” She wasn’t exaggerating – while the roads are well maintained, they often wind through mountainous terrain with hairpin turns, and some locals drive with a speed that rivals a Formula One race, while somehow managing to still be courteous. But having a car is essential for exploring the diverse and welcoming island of Guadeloupe.
You’ve likely heard of the French Antilles islands of Saint Martin, St Barts, and Martinique, but have you heard much about Guadeloupe? It’s not just the stunning Caribbean destination you expect, Guadeloupe is also the real-life backdrop for the famous show “Death in Paradise”. I spent a week exploring this beautiful but under-the-radar island, with white sand beaches and lush rainforests. As a senior and traveling by myself, I found the island was easy to navigate – a car is a must-have though – and very safe for exploring. There is a lot to do and see, especially if you love the outdoors, hiking, and photography. But you’ll also have opportunities to relax on some of the nicest and quietest beaches in the Caribbean, enjoying crystal-clear water and beautiful sunsets.
Guadeloupe consists of several islands, with the two main ones being Basse-Terre and Grand-Terre. These two islands are separated by a narrow sea channel called the “Rivière Salée” (Salt River) and together they form the shape of a butterfly, giving rise to Guadeloupe’s nickname “The Butterfly Island”.
The landscape is very distinct between Basse-Terre and Grand-Terre, each offering their own unique experience. Basse-Terre, the western portion, is characterized by its volcanic origin, evident in its mountainous terrain and dense rainforests. The majestic La Soufrière volcano stands as the highest peak, surrounded by lush forests and cascading waterfalls. Grande-Terre, the eastern part, offers a striking contrast with its relatively flat and more arid landscape. It’s stunning white sandy beaches and turquoise waters are iconic of Caribbean postcard imagery. Grande-Terre also features fertile plains where agriculture thrives, contributing to the island’s culinary richness. I spent time exploring both islands although was personally drawn to Basse-Terre with its mountainous landscape, lush vegetation, hiking trails, and many waterfalls.
On both islands, the people are warm and hospitable, reflecting the vibrant blend of cultures that have shaped the island’s identity. With influences from African, European, Caribbean, and indigenous heritage, Guadeloupeans take pride in their diverse backgrounds. Guadeloupe is an overseas department and region of France, and is subject to French law and administration, and its residents are French citizens. This allows the island to benefit from certain aspects of French governance while maintaining its unique identity. As such, the Euro is in use at all establishments and French is the official language.
Where to Stay
When it comes to choosing a place to stay in Guadeloupe, you’ll be presented with a diverse array of options that cater to different preferences and experiences. However, unlike many other parts of the Caribbean, you will not find an endless row of “all inclusive” resorts along the beaches, apart from the Club Med resort. Most resorts and hotels are “European Plan” (no meals included) while others will have a breakfast option available. Most travellers like me opt for accommodations that allow for self-catering and a wide array is available through Airbnb and VRBO. If you have mobility or accessibility issues, check through the online listings to ensure you will have comfortable and easy access to your rental property. Major French supermarkets are available across the island such as Carrefour and Leader Price and are also accessible with reserved parking spots for those with mobility issues. Most supermarkets offer fresh, warm baguettes several times throughout the day and a wonderful selection of French wines.
- Pointe-à-Petrie offers a range of hotels and accommodations for those seeking the vibrant energy of a city and easy access to restaurants and cultural attractions, such as Mémorial ACTe.
- Sainte-Anne and Saint-Francois are coastal towns and ideal for those who desire tranquil beaches and a more laid-back atmosphere.
- Nature? Consider accommodations near the lush rainforests and waterfalls of Basse-Terre, such as the charming village of Deshaies (which is portrayed as “Honoré” in the series “Death in Paradise”).
- Adventurous travelers might prefer the southern tip of Basse-Terre, near the La Soufrière volcano, as a captivating destination offering a multitude of hiking trails catering to a varying degrees of difficulty.
No matter where you decide to stay, renting a car enables you to explore both Basse-Terre and Grande-Terre with ease, ensuring you make the most of your time on the island.
What to See
The beautiful Memorial ACTe in Pointe-à-Petrie is a through-provoking cultural centre and museum dedicated to the Memory and History of the Slave Trade, exploring its impact on Guadeloupe and the wider Caribbean through immersive exhibits, art, and educational programs. If you are like me – a traveller and not just a tourist – then take some time away from the beach to visit Memorial ACTe and discover the history of Guadeloupe.
Other sites to see – and which are easily accessible by car – include:
- Jardin Botanique de Deshaies – brimming with beautiful tropical flora, the botanical gardens of Deshaies offers a peaceful stroll through gardens and alongside streams and waterfalls. It’s best to visit in the morning when they open before the temperature gets too steamy.
- La Pointe des Châteaux – “Castle Point”, this is a stunning natural landmark located at the easternmost tip of Grande-Terre. The dramatic coastal scene of volcanic rock, sandy coves and beaches, and scenic views here offers a unique opportunity to experience the untamed beauty of the east coast. It’s ideal for nature lovers, hikers, photographers, and anyone seeking a serene and picturesque escape.
- Guadeloupe National Park – located on Basse-Terre and covering 170 sq km of lush rainforests, pristine waterfalls, and diverse ecosystems, makes this an ideal place for nature enthusiasts and hikers. The park is home to La Soufriere volcano, picturesque hiking trails, and a rich array of plant and animal species.
- Sainte-Anne Beach – located on Grande-Terre and renowned for its powdery white sands and crystal-clear turquoise waters, making it a postcard-perfect tropical paradise.
- Grande Anse Beach – nestled on the western coast, this beach captivates visitors with its expansive golden sands, gently lapping waves, and a backdrop of lush greenery, creating a serene and picturesque retreat. After some time on the beach, wander over to the cafes and food trucks for some local snack.
No matter what beach I was looking for, the chances are that you may have one all to yourself – you’ll never have issues finding a place to lay down your towel. The beaches are relatively quiet year-round, although it does get mildly busier in December and at the New Year.
Where to Eat
Guadeloupe offers a rich culinary experience that fuses French, Caribbean. African and indigenous flavours, creating a vibrant tapestry of tastes and aromas. Dining out can be a great adventure, where you can savor a variety of dishes that showcase the islands diverse cultural influences and bountiful local ingredients. From creole cuisine to fresh seafood, and from rum and punches to local markets, there is something for everyone.
- L’Optimiste – fine dining in Saint Francoise, with numerous appetizers and salads, mains, and deserts on offer. They have a solid and extensive list of cocktails and wines available.
- Sunset B – located in Bouillante, they have a limited menu each evening of 4-5 mains but there is usually something to fit everyone’s taste. The focus is on local ingredients and seafood, with a creole influence.
- L’Otantik Grill – cozy beachside restaurant in Sainte Rose with a large patio serving daily seafood specials, with a local creole flair, and occasional live music. I had the freshly caught garfish, grilled on the BBQ with some seasoning, and it was delicious.
- Chez Tof Table D’Hote – located in Port Louis with amazing food and a great atmosphere, this small and cozy restaurant will let you call ahead and order somethings specific for your visit the next day. Great service!
And if you are self-catering or just looking for some souvenirs, don’t forget to check out the local markets: Visit the Sainte-Antoine Market in Pointe-à-Pitre, a listed historic monument site; try the colourful Sainte-Anne Market, with 15 stores in the arts and craft village; or check out the Night Market in Le Gosier on Fridays. You’ll also see fisherman selling freshly-caught fish by the roadside – don’t be afraid to stop and ask what the going price is for their catch-of-the-day.
Drink
The rum industry is a significant part of Guadeloupe’s cultural and economic landscape, deeply rooted in the island’s history, and is renowned for the high-quality rum produced from locally grown sugarcane. Distilleries across the island produce a diverse range of rums, and tours (and tastings!) are available at almost all. I enjoyed my experience at Distillerie Papa Rouyo, a newer distillery housed alongside LeKouze brewery. Distillerie Longueteau and Distillerie de Rhum Montebello are also highly recommended by travelers. And don’t forget the local rum punch – the Ti’ Punch – just cane sugar, lime, rum, and ice! Enjoy!
I make it a point to seek out craft and local beer experiences during my travels, and Guadeloupe offers a delightful array of microbreweries. Among them, two standout options offer not just excellent beer but also breathtaking views. One such gem is Les Bieres de la Lezarde, nestled in the residential haven of Petit-Bourg. Here, you’ll find yourself enveloped by lush, multi-tiered gardens with strategically placed seating areas that overlook the picturesque valley. During my visit, I had the pleasure of speaking with the manager who introduced me to a diverse range of beers, from the typical ales and lagers to those crafted with more unique and local ingredients. The Gwozey Peyi, infused with hibiscus, stood out as a true gem. But be prepared for a fiery adventure with the Piment, a pepper-based brew that nearly blew my socks off!
Another captivating option is LeKouz – known as “The Cousins” – a brewery that offers a great blend of stunning views over the ocean, and outdoor and indoor seating. The brewery building itself, and the out buildings, showcase the artwork of local graffiti artists and muralists, providing a great visual element to your beer experience. During my visit, I arrived a bit early, finding the brewery not yet open. Nonetheless, I took a leisurely stroll around the property, capturing photos of the view and the artwork. A friendly encounter with a young man from the brewery left a lasting impression of Guadeloupe’s hospitality. Despite the unopened doors, he showed genuine kindness in offering me an ice-cold Amber Alle, promptly turning my wait for the doors to open into an enjoyable moment on the spot. This gesture epitomizes the warm spirit that Guadeloupeans readily shared with me during my time on the island, making all aspects of exploring truly unforgettable.
Scuba Diving – The Cousteau Marine Reserve
I couldn’t leave Guadeloupe without experiencing the diving at The Cousteau Marine Reserve, named after the renowned oceanographer Jacques Cousteau. This is a protected underwater reserve just off the coast of Basse-Terre. This biodiverse reserve is celebrated for its vibrant coral reefs, diverse marine life, and exceptional diving (and snorkelling) opportunities. Nearby dive operator Heures Saines (The Healthy Hours) has excellent equipment for rent and well-trained divemaster’s who will take care of you. There is almost no current and the dives are generally no more than 20m deep, although you can arrange for deeper dives in consultation with the dive shop. They also run frequent charters to other sites along the coast – just check their website or contact them through email with your potential diving wish list.
You can sign up ahead of time to take your Open Water Scuba Course, try an easy Beginner Scuba adventure, or – if you are comfortable in the water but not at depth – an easy snorkelling trip while the divers are down below. There is free parking on site, and their boats will get you out to the marine reserve in under five minutes. They run several two-tank dives throughout the day, starting in the early morning, allowing you to shower and complete your logbook before noon. Before you go, don’t forget to check on the very affectionate kittens at the dive shop and admire the Caribbean view! And if you have an underwater camera, you’ll want to make sure you have a chance to photograph the statue honoring Jacques Cousteau, located on the sand in the reserve at just 13m.
When to Visit
Guadeloupe’s climate is tropical, characterized by consistent warm temperatures throughout the year. The region experiences distinct wet and dry seasons. The wet season runs from June to November and brings higher rainfall and the potential for tropical storms. The dry season, from December to May, offers more comfortable weather with lower humidity and fewer rain events. My experience in early October saw only short bursts of rain on two days during the week I was there, but you should be prepared with a lightweight raincoat or shell.
Getting to Guadeloupe
The main airport is Pointe-à-Pitre (PTP) and is the hub for both Air Caraïbes and Air Antilles Express, offering inter-Caribbean flights. Air France has two Airbus A320’s based at PTP for regional inter-island flights and flights to Miami and Montreal.
Sixt car rental will pick you up at the airport and take you to their car rental centre, just a short drive away, and you should have your vehicle within a few minutes. Driving in Guadeloupe is enjoyable, with lovely coastal roads, but can also be challenging with winding roads through the mountainous areas. Roads are well-maintained and although the signage is in French, it’s well marked and easy to understand. Roads – primarily outside Pointe-à-Pitre – are generally clear although you will encounter numerous roundabouts which you may not be accustomed to.
USA: Air France offers year-round service from Miami, twice per week; American Airlines offer weekly service from Miami; and JetBlue offers seasonal service from JFK, with three departures per week.
Canada: Air Canada offers service three times per week from Montreal; Air Transat offers seasonal service three times per week from Montreal; and Air France offers seasonal service from Montreal twice per week.
Europe: Air France, Corsair, and Air Caraïbes, offer daily service to Guadeloupe from France, while Neos offers weekly seasonal service from Italy and Switzerland.
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