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San Pedro de Atacama and the Atacama Desert – Chile

Summer 2022

I didn’t know I would fall in love with the desert so quickly, but I did.

As my flight from Santiago descended to Calama airport, I gazed out the window, captivated by the stark beauty of the arid landscape below. Little did I know how quickly I would become enamoured with the desert’s surreal charm.

The Atacama Desert is a place of astonishing contrasts: It’s the driest non-polar desert on Earth, a haven for astrophotography and stargazing, and its terrain resembles the very soil of Mars. Yet it is undeniably and breathtakingly beautiful.

After retrieving my car from Calama airport, a short 90 min drive led me to the enchanting town of San Pedro de Atacama. This ancient village, with its dirt roads and adobe houses, served as the gateway to my Chilean desert adventure. Surrounded by some of the world’s most awe-inspiring wonders, San Pedro de Atacama beckons adventure seekers and nature enthusiasts alike. The Atacama Salt Flats, Valle de la Luna (Valley of the Moon), Valle de la Muerta (Death Valley), and the El Tatio Geyers are all within easy reach and are “must-see” destinations in the area. The town also boats a rich cultural heritage, deeply influenced by the indigenous Atacemeño people.

As I parked my car at Hotel Pascual Andino, my home for the next four nights, I set out to explore the town for the afternoon. Even in the heart of the Chilean winter (July), San Pedro de Atacama buzzed with activity, bustling with fellow travellers and backpackers. Situated near the border, the town serves as a gateway to Bolivia, and you’ll find numerous travel shops offering packaged tours to the Uyuni Sale Flats and other attractions in the neighboring country. Accommodation options abound, catering to a range of preferences, from high-end hotels to cozy hostels ideal for students and backpackers. However, it’s advisable to book ahead, especially if you plan to visit during the peak season from December through April. Additionally, the town boasts a diverse culinary scene with restaurants and bars to suit every budget, ensuring that there’s something for everyone to savor.

Where to Stay

Finding my hotel for my four-night stay in San Pedro de Atacama was a breeze. Nestled on a quiet side street, it was just a short stroll from the heart of this charming town and it’s mostly pedestrian roads. Hotel Pascual Andino welcomed me with its adobe walls that encircled the tranquil oasis within. The hotels design seamlessly blended traditional adobe aesthetics with modern comforts, featuring an outdoor hot tub and cozy seating areas. My room was both spacious and impeccably clean, boasting a generous bathroom and a small outdoor seating area, all adorned in a distinctive Chilean style. To my surprise, a complimentary bottle of Chilean white wine from the Limuru Valley awaited me, setting the tone for my stay. Each morning I began my day of exploration with a complimentary breakfast, complete with made-to-order eggs and meats, freshly baked breads and pastries, juices, exceptional coffee, and fresh fruit. While on-site parking spaces were limited, I encountered no issues parking on an adjacent street one night. Moreover, if a spot is available the manager provides a remote for the gate, allowing guests with cars to come and go at their convenience. There were also bicycles on offer from the hotel, allowing guests to explore the town on two wheels.

Other highly recommended hotels include:

• Hotel La Casa de Don Tomás – includes a complimentary breakfast, has a pool on site, as well as a restaurant for lunch and dinner. A bit out on the edge of town but still easily walkable to the town centre.
• Hotel Casa Solcar – complimentary breakfast. A great choice for anyone looking for a self-catering option, as you have access to the kitchens of the casita. About a 15-minute walk to the center of town.
• La Casa del Pueblo Hostal – a renovated house that has rooms with bathroom attached, or rooms that use a shared bathroom. Complimentary breakfast. Knowledgeable and helpful owners. In the heart of the town.

What to See

While having a car can offer you the flexibility to explore the San Pedro de Atacama area at your own pace, it’s important to note that it’s not essential for visiting the main attractions in town. If your plans include venturing into remote areas or discovering off-the-beaten-path sites, much like I did, then renting a car is your best option. The regions road network is generally well-maintained, featuring long stretches of well-paved roads with minimal traffic. This ease of travel allows you to conveniently pull over whenever you wish to take a break or capture a photograph of the stunning landscape. Do note that some secondary roads may be gravel or – in some cases – have small sand dunes crossing them which you will need to navigate! And here’s a friendly reminder: always be prepared to brake for the llamas, vicuñas, and guanacos!

Most sites within the town itself are walkable, and many hotels or hostels will rent a bicycle to you for your exploring. If renting a car is not for you, there are many tours available that include transportation, knowledgeable guides, and sometimes a meal, depending in the length of the tour.

• Valle de la Luna (Valley of the Moon) – a surreal lunar landscape which is one of the most iconic attractions in the area. With salt formations, caves, and stunning geological formations, it is especially popular for watching the sunset, which can be spectacular! About a 30min drive from the heart of town.
• Salar de Atacama – the largest salt flat in Chile. It’s a vast expanse of white salt crust and home to thousands of flamingoes (best seen Dec-Mar). If you have never seen salt flats before, the surreal landscape is mesmerizing and beautiful in its own way. About 90mins drive from town.
• Geysers del Tatio – located at high altitude, this is one of the world’s highest geyser fields. Visit in the early morning to see the geothermal activity, with the sunrise as the background. Roughly 90 mins from town.
• San Pedro de Atacama Church – dating back to the 17^th century, it’s an architectural and cultural symbol of the regions blend of indigenous and Spanish influences. In the heart of the town.   
• Valle del Arcoíris (Rainbow Valley) – a valley known for its stunning colorful rock formations, which create a rainbow-like effect. A spectacular place to wander around. About 1 hour from San Pedro de Atacama.

Where to Eat

San Pedro de Atacama offers a variety of traditional Chilean and Andean dishes in the local restaurants. At most restaurants you can expect to find:

• Empanadas – A great snack to get you through your day.
• Cazuela – hearty Chilean stew made with beef or chicken, with rice, corn, potatoes, and vegetables. Great for those cooler months.
• Chorrillana – a hearty feast for cold nights that left me stuffed. A plate of french-fries topped with sauteed onions, strips of beef, and fried eggs! A Chilean equivalent of Poutine?

Some the restaurants recommended to me when I visited included:

• Aura Andina Restaurant – good food and large portions, for an above-average price, but they have live music at lunch and dinner which was nice.
• Ckunza Tilar – good food with plates to share, nice portions and prices.
• Roots Café & Bar – small café where I grabbed my second morning coffee (excellent!). They have breakfast, lunch, and many desserts and pastries. Good quality and nice, casual atmosphere – highly recommended!
• La Casona – unassuming from the street with nice seating inside but opens up to a large courtyard with heating and a stage for live music. Professional service and good food. This is where I had my massive serving of Chorillana!

Drink

As an enthusiast of craft and local beer, I make it a point to seek out breweries and brewpubs wherever I travel. In San Pedro de Atacama, a town with just 3,900 residents, I was pleasantly surprised to discover the local gem known as Cervecería St. Peter. Nestled down a dusty road, this brewpub offers an enticing array of their own brewed beer, cocktails, and food options – including pizza! You can choose to savor your brew indoors or soak in the town’s ambiance on the street-facing patio as I did – who doesn’t love people watching? The beer selection caters to a spectrum of tastes, ranging from light and refreshing options to more robust ales and stouts, the latter perfectly suited for the cool July weather during my visit. I couldn’t help but notice that my draft arrived in a rather menacing stein, fashioned in the shape of a skull, but also accompanied by a delicious serving of Chilean sopaipillas and salsa for dipping. Impressed by the quality, I returned the following night to sample a different beer style and it proved equally as enjoyable.

While not a brewpub, ChelaCabur is not to be overlooked if you’re in the mood for a pint. This small but busy bar exudes a lively atmosphere and decor, with music that leans toward the punk or metal end of the spectrum yet somehow feel right at home in this dusty desert town. Its décor encapsulates the essence of a backpacker’s dive bar, and is endless fun. The bar offers a diverse selection of Chilean beers, some on tap, with options ranging from half pints to pitchers. Plus, there’s always a soccer game playing on the TV in the corner, ensuring an engaging backdrop for your afternoon or evening.

The Atacama Desert and Salt Flats

The Atacama Desert welcomes you with a surreal and beckoning landscape. As I ventured out on my journey across the arid salt flats and through the desert terrain, I found myself surrounded by incredible vistas, each showcasing the natural wonders of this unique landscape. One of the signature features of the Atacama Desert is its expansive salt flats, seeming endless and striking, where the bright blue sky meets the blinding white ground. The two primary salt flats, Salar de Atacama to the south of San Pedro de Atacama (approx. 90 minutes by car) and Salar de Tara to the northeast of town (a 45-minute drive), offer visitors an otherworldly and somewhat surreal experience. The stark contract between the foreign and almost lunar-like landscape, and the surrounding hills and mountains, is truly mesmerizing. It felt like I was pulling over every five minutes to take another photograph of the spectacular landscape!

Yet, the Atacama offers much more than the captivating salt flats. As I ventured deeper into the desert, I encountered an amazing palette of colors – rusts, reds, oranges, and yellows – across the landscape. Bands of vivid clay streak across these nearby hills, that create colors that defy my sense of what a desert should look like. Adding to this, dormant volcanoes, including Licancabur, Lascar, and Juriques, gracefully loomed on the horizon. These towering peaks provided a fantastic backdrop to the salt flats, creating a perfect setting for photography enthusiasts like me. Many of these volcanoes are part of the magnificent Andes Mountain range.

The convenience of exploring the wonders of the Atacama Desert is an integral part of its appeal. Most of the region’s must-see attractions lie within a comfortable 90-minute drive from the heart of San Pedro de Atacama. During my visit, I frequently embarked on journeys to various sites and after immersing myself in the beauty of one location, I’d leisurely navigate the adjacent side roads, allowing myself to explore the desert’s hidden gems as I slowly made my way back to the town. The unhurried exploration added an element of surprise to my desert adventure, not really knowing what I would encounter next – such as the sign indicating I was crossing The Tropic of Capricorn!

As a solo traveller, embarking on lengthy drives into the desert and the salt flats, I enjoyed creating my own musical playlist. This collection of songs aimed to mirror the essence of the desert’s vast beauty in an auditory fashion. The outcome was a moody playlist predominantly featuring acoustic melodies, with a prominent presence from the American acoustic trio Khruangbin. Khruangbin’s music, known for its fusion of global influences such as soul, jazz, dub, rock, and psychedelia, became the soundtrack of my desert journey. One track in particular, “Father Bird, Mother Bird”, held a special place in my heart and resonated deeply with the vibrant yet somewhat melancholic soul of the Atacama Desert. To this day, when I hear that song, I’m transported back to the captivating landscapes and the solitary drives of my Atacama adventure.

Astrophotography

As an avid photographer, I’ve always marvelled at photographs capturing the beauty of the night sky. While I’ve tried my hand at photographing the full moon in the past, the prospect of photographing stars was an uncharted area for me. The desert surroundings of San Pedro de Atacama, known for its incredibly dark night skies, offered the ideal canvas for this pursuit. I had booked an Astronomical Photo Tour through Viator, which promised not only expert guidance but also the chance to have my portrait taken against the backdrop of a starry expanse or the milky way. However, just 24 hours before the scheduled tour, an unexpected hurdle emerged as the tour leader encountered COVID-related issues, leading to its cancellation.

Undeterred, and armed with camera gear, a trusty flashlight, my car and warm clothes (essential given the night temperatures could drop as low as 1C or 33F), I set off on my astrophotography adventure deep into the desert at midnight. By 1 am, I had my tripod and camera set up and began the process of trying to capture the night sky. I had printed off some instructions at the hotel, which proved helpful as a tinkered with the camera settings. Despite moments of plunging myself into darkness every time I switched off the flashlight, I persevered. In the end, I was rewarded with several photographs that I was very happy with, capturing not only the night sky but the rusty clay hills as well. The experience not only left me content with the results of my first attempt at capturing the stars, but also fuelled my passion to try and seek out other dark corners of the world to further improve my night photography skills. And lesson learned: cell phone service can be spotty out in the desert, so make sure you know where you are heading and how to get back to the main road, as you may not be able to rely on the GPS on your phone!

When to Visit

When is the “best” time to visit the Atacama Desert and San Pedro de Atacama? This largely depends on your preferences for weather and the activities that you want to pursue. I loved my time in July, with bright blue skies and cool temperatures – I am not a fan of overheating!

Weather: It’s dry and sunny all year round, but the temperatures vary.

• Austral Summer (Dec to May) – this is the warmest time to visit, with daytime temperatures running from 25C to 32C
• Shoulder Season (Apr to June, Sept to Nov) – milder temperatures, 18C to 25C, and cooler evenings. It’s less crowded than summer months
• Austral Winter (July to Aug) – winter can be bold especially in the evenings, if you are not prepared, with daytime temperatures running from 14C to 20C. It’s. agreat time for stargazing because of the clear skies, but you’ll need to dress appropriately for outdoor activities.

Crowds: the peak season is during the summer (Dec to Mar) with more significant crowds, which means higher pricing for lodging, busier restaurants and pubs, and tours/trips fill up fast.

I would personally recommend the winter months if you don’t mind the cool temperatures. Despite the cooler air, the skies are sunny, and I could still sit outside during the day with a sweater or jacket, and enjoy a glass of wine or beer, without being burdened by crowds of fellow travellers. Regardless of the time of year you visit, the charming nature of San Pedro de Atacama and the allure of the fascinating desert landscape will not disappoint you.

Getting to San Pedro de Atacama and the Atacama Desert

The easiest way to journey to San Pedro de Atacama is by air, flying into the nearby Calama Airport (CJC). The airport has numerous flights per day from Santiago, and one or two daily flights from La Serena and Concepcion, provided by LATAM, Sky Airline, and JetSMART. If you are not renting a car, buses run on a regular basis from Calama Airport to San Pedro de Atacama, and you can also book shuttles and private transfers online. These should be reserved well in advance during the summer season (Dec through Mar).